On sweltering days like today, Iām reminded of Hawaiāi. Not because the heat feels the sameāHawaiian summers are sultry and lush and wind-sweptābut because the exact thing, the only thing maybe, to ward off the skin-tingling sun is a little bowl of shave ice.
Shave ice is particular to Hawaiāi, where the missing ādā is sliced off the end, thinning the word to five letters like a blade reduces ice slabs to flecks. A decades-old favorite for visitors and locals alike is Matsumoto Shave Ice in Haleāiwa, a small North Shore community where my grandmother grew up with āall sorts of families around the neighborhood,ā she told me a couple of years back when her childhood memories proved stronger than remembering why she took the butter from the fridge.
Here on the mainland, though, there is plenty of shaved ice. This week I made a short list of some really good ones that range in style, from classic syrup-drenched ice mounds (hello, Bahama Buckās) to Korean-style bingsoo (or bingsu, at Snowy Village) in all its milky, silky glory. Then thereās raspado, shaved ice Mexican style, where flavor combos come in mango chamoyada, a sweet-salty-tangy treat (find it at Sno).
For a Japanese version, thereās kakigori, which is often plush with fruit, sweet azuki red beans, and vanilla ice cream. You can find a fanciful take at Nobu Dallas, where watermelon and strawberry syrup grace fluffy ice and coconut-vanilla gelato, all dusted with lime zest. I canāt forget halo-halo, the Philippinesā answer to āHow many sweets and textures can we fit into a cup?ā Apparently, many.
Bahay and Ulam have blessedly kept halo-halo in the mix-mix at their respective pop-ups. Otherwise, brick-and-mortar spots in the burbs have you covered: Marieās Kitchen has served it on occasion; thereās Taste of Philippines in Garland; Lewisvilleās Kabayan Filipino Store & Cafe; Inihaw Avenue Filipino Kitchen in Irving.
It may not be the same as eating li hing mui (sweet, salted plum) shave ice on the shores of Oāahu, but, wow. does it quell the heat nonetheless.
Stay cool out there,
